Well yes, there is a way to get rid of termites without having to tent the home. First, you'll need to educate yourself on termites so you'll be better prepared to deal with this home invader. I suggest you start by reading our TERMITE CONTROL ARTICLE. It goes into extensive details about this insect including why they invade the home, how to control them and the products you'll need to do the job. In my experience, I've treated many mobile homes with termites and in all cases it's been an easy task to accomplish. This is true because I have experience with this pest but with a little guideance, you too can tackle the problem if you're willing to do a little work to save a lot of money.

First, make sure you have subterranean termites. These are the kind that live in the ground. Drywood termites will thrive up in the structure and the treatments for both are quite different. In general, it's much easier to control subterranean termites and if you read our article, you'll learn how to tell the difference between the two if you're not sure.

Second, make sure you don't have any major leaks in your home. Leaks will enable termites to live above ground – up in the wood of the structure – and if they're nesting up high, traditional ground treatments won't work. To make sure there are no leaks, you'll need to get down under the home and do a good inspection looking for any wet, puddling or any decaying wood members of the home.

Third, once you're under the unit inspecting for any leaks, you should also be noting any pipes that come up from the ground, any support columns or poles, pillars or concrete blocks that look like they might be supporting the home as all of these can be pathways termites will use to get inside the home. In most cases, treating around all of these will be required to keep the termites out so be sure you know where they are all located and that they're all accessible.

Lastly, decide if you want to apply some TERMIDOR or VIPER EC to the ground which will be what creates the termite barrier. We can help you make the decision and a big part of calculating how much you'll need will be based on the dimensions of the area needing to be treated. If you have a "skirt" around the home or a foundation of any kind, it will need to be added to this total which is usually reported in "linear feet". So if you have 100 linear to feet to treat, we'll be able to tell you how much product you'll need, how to mix it and how to apply it.

In summary, the cost of doing your own termite job will no doubt be a lot less compared to hiring a service company. To help you along the way, feel free to call us toll free at 1-800-877-7290 and one of our tech reps will be able to further assist. Yes, this will require some work and a willingness to get both a little dirty and expend a little energy. But in the end, the savings can be significant so it's usually a good investment.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Termite Control Article:  http://www.termites-swarming.com/termite-control

Termidor:  http://www.bugspray.com/item/termidor_sc.html

Cyper Tc:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page24.html

If you review our TERMITE CONTROL ARTICLE, you'll see we list BORACARE as a good product to use for above ground treatments. Because of it's long term residual action and deep penetrating quality, Boracare treated wood can remain pest free for many years. This is especially true when using it inside home wall voids, crawl spaces and attics where the treatment space is protected from the outside elements.

Additionally, if you refer to the BORACARE LABEL, you'll learn there are three methods of applying it which are all generally accepted. The most common is using a PUMP SPRAYER. This is the preferred method for spraying open areas like decks, wood floors and open spaces where run off would not be a concern. The inside of wall voids would be tough to spray unless the wall is opened up so for these locations, FOAMING TOOLS are commonly employed. The use of foam as a carrier insures better coverage and therefore better results in tight spaces where accessibility is limited. Lastly, open areas like attic spaces with a lot of exposed wood out of reach are commonly fogged with MISTING MACHINES. This application is the preferred method because it will both deliver the product "lightly" so the amount of run off is easy to control as well as make the application easy to manage. When misting you're able to limit both waste and puddling that might otherwise leak through ceilings to living spaces below.

Based on your description of the area needing to be treated, I would recommend misting the space for the reasons cited above. Though spraying is an option, you'd have to cover the floor (which is usually wide open insulated areas) due to the extensive run off to insure it won't leak into the spaces below. Additionally, the amount of waste when spraying upwards is always significant and therefore adds to the overall cost of material quite a bit. Lastly, misting is much easier and better suited to achieve better results so in the long run, it will prove the best way to treat this area. The only application method which can compare is if you opted to get long EXTENSION POLES and paint rollers and choose to roll the Boracare onto the overhead beams. Though a viable option, it too can be both messy and time consuming compared to misting.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Termite Control Article:   http://www.termites-swarming.com/termite-control#boracare

Boracare:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page234.html

Boracare Label:  http://www.bugspray.net/labels/boracare_label.pdf

Pump Sprayer:  http://www.gotosprayer.com/sprayers/pump-sprayers/one-gallon-solo-hd

Foaming Machines:  http://www.gotosprayer.com/sprayers/foamers/solo-2-gallon-foamer

Misting Machines:  http://www.gotosprayer.com/fogging/electric-misters/bg-2300-fogger

14 Ft Extension Pole:  http://www.gotosprayer.com/other-equipment/poles/unger-14-ft-telescoping-pole

I was looking through your website and hope you can help me. I have an heirloom bow front cabinet that has termite damage on one of the legs. What product would you suggest for repair of this damage to ensure that I don’t bring any pests into my house. The cabinet is still at my mother’s house.

Thanks for your help. I look forward to hearing from you.

If you take some time to read through our TERMITE CONTROL ARTICLE, you'll see mention of a product called BORACARE. This product is ideally suited for treating free standing pieces of furniture. It soaks into the grain of the wood and once embedded, wood destroying insects like termites and beetles won't stand a chance at surviving. If they attempt to feed on the wood, they'll quickly die. Treatments can last many years and it's both odorless and safe.

Alternatively, you can opt to use the JECTA GEL. It's essentially Boracare but as a gel you are able to apply it quite differently. For some treatments this alternative form is better suited.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Termite Control Article:  http://www.termites-swarming.com/termite-control

Boracare:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page234.html

Jecta Gel: http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page156.html

At this point I advise you to get a treatment done ASAP! Clearly you have active termites and if the structure hasn't been treated yet, it needs a full residual applied to keep these guys out. For starters, I suggest you read through our TERMITE CONTROL ARTICLE. In the article you'll learn the various treatment options and from the reading you should be able to decide if you will attempt to do the job yourself or hire a service company to do the work.

First and foremost, it's important to understand the termite swarmers you are seeing is indicative of a live and very active infestation. As our article explains, the swarmers will only leave from where workers have been before. You didn't mention where the swarm was seen but in all liklihood it's one of the entry points into the structure. Whether this is on the outside of the building or the inside: it's a live and very active problem that needs to be treated.

As for the dry wall; they aren't actually eating the chalk inside the dry wall but rather the paper outer shell. It's cellulose (wood by product) and they most definitely will eat paper and cardboard. Usually what you'll find will be the paper missing and the paint will begin to peel or chip off the wall. There will also be some dirt or sand in tiny grooves where the paper used to be which is what worker termites bring in when tunneling and eating. This is most likely what you saw at the base of the toilet last year too which just confirms a live infestation.

Lastly, though you don't mention the kind of structure where this is happening, it sounds like it could be a slab home. If so, you'll need a good application with something like the TERMIDOR over everything else we have listed in our article. If applied where they're active you could solve the problem once and for all but at this point it's important you refrain from random spraying anything else. Spooking the termites away will effectively only push them to other parts of the home which in the end will make solving the problem that much more difficult. This is what will happen with most sprays like the "bug spray" you mentioned above. As you'll learn, Termidor doesn't act this way and because of the way it does work it's really the only spray you should consider if the home is a slab. If you still have questions regarding this problem, give us a call Mon-Sat at 1-800-877-7290 as I'm sure one of our techs can further assist.

Here are direct links to the information and products mentioned above:

http://www.termites-swarming.com/termite-control

http://www.bugspray.com/item/termidor_sc.html

jonathan

www.bugspray.com

In fact most termite colonies will generate male and female swarmers most springs which are sometimes called kings and queens. But the females aren't real queens; at least not yet. They will have to pair off successfully and start a new colony for this to happen and it's not that easy to do.

More importantly, if you are seeing that many at your house and it hasn't been treated recently, you need to have the problem addressed. Termites swarming in or around the home is a sure sign of a problem that needs attention. I suggest you read through our TERMITE CONTROL ARTICLE and decide if want to treat this problem yourself or hire a service company. Failure to do anything would be a mistake – especially if you're seeing them inside the home.

Here is a direct link to the article cited above:

http://www.termites-swarming.com/termite-control

jonathan

www.bugspray.com

In all likelihood you have a problem. As explained in our TERMITE CONTROL ARTICLE, termites will release swarmers or reproductives from their most active locations. These termites are essentially males and females leaving an existing colony or active location with the sole purpose to be forming a new colony. Swarmers aren't equipped to prepare escape tunnels and pathways out and away from their nest and instead rely on workers to build such pathways. This means if you're seeing them in the home, workers have been or are still there. In other words: you have termites.

At this time I suggest you review our article. If you decide this might be a treatment you'll be willing to attempt, give us a call with any questions and I'm sure we can assist.

http://www.termites-swarming.com/termite-control

If you have a photo, just e-mail it to us and we should be able to tell if the quality is good enough. I also suggest you read through our TERMITE CONTROL ARTICLE which explains in great detail most anything you need to know if you want to find out more about this pest.

As you will learn, termites will many times build these tunnels through which they travel to access wood (food for termites). The tunnels protect them and can go unnoticed for long periods of time. And many times they will abandon tunnels so even if you aren't seeing any "live" termites, if the house hasn't been treated since the tunnels were first discovered, it's generally thought the activity is "new". At that point a thorough application is usually the best way to proceed.

For now, I suggest you read our article. After you learn more about them you can decide if you want to do some treating yourself or hire a professional. If you have further questions or concerns, you can always give us a call toll free too at 1-800-877-7290.

jonathan

www.bugspray.com

Termidor is still being tested and monitored but when used at label rates, it has proven to be 100% effective 7+ years. In other words, when applied properly at labeled rates, you shouldn't have to do another application for many years to come. My guess is you can expect to get at least 10 years of residual in areas around the outside foundation perimeter of the home. Inside treatments that are protected could last longer. This would include locations like crawl spaces or under a slab. So to answer your question, a job done properly using Termidor as explained in our TERMITE CONTROL ARTICLE should yield excellent results and prove to be all that is needed to both control the current termite problem as well as protect the structure for several years after the application. If you have further questions or concerns, please give us a call on our toll free at 1-800-877-7290.

B.J.

Termites will readily attack wood or other cellulose material which is both vulnerable and readily available. Fence posts buried in the ground are generally prime targets and should always be treated prior to installation or else termites will surely find them at some point in time. It sounds like that time has arrived for your fence but that doesn't mean the fencing is all bad; just because you see termites it doesn't mean there is significant damage. A good treatment when termites are first detected can many times keep them away for good and save the targeted wood from being replaced.

Ideally the soil should be treated prior to the fence poles being installed. If they're already in the ground, you can usually treat them by removing some dirt around the base of the pole and loosening up the soil enough so a good liquid treatment will soak down to where the termites are gaining access. This means a good soil drenching will be required. Most labels like that on CYPER TC TERMITE CONCENTRATE will list 1.5 gallons of mixed product per foot of pole buried. So if the poles are 4 feet down, you'll need to use 6 gallons of mixed product to get a good treatment in place.

For more information on how to treat around the home or other structures, refer to our TERMITE CONTROL ARTICLE which covers most of what you'll need to know about this destructive pest. If you have more questions about termites, please give us a call on our toll free 1-800-877-7290 and one of our tech reps will be able to further assist.

The following video walks you through the process of inspection and should help educate you as to when you should change one or leave it be.