I have termites in several branches of my non-fruiting olive tree (40+ years old). The infested branches are dying. I was looking for a solution and came across the info for your Termidor product and wondered if I could pour this diluted product around the tree base? That way, the roots would pick it up and ingest it into the wood, thus having its effect on killing the termites. Would this work to save this beautiful olive tree? I could also spray some on the outside bark of the tree – would that help? Would it harm the tree??
A diluted mixture of TERMIDOR applied around the tree and into exposed galleries would no doubt do the job. And it won't hurt the tree either.
Termites, carpenter ants and other wood destroying pests will many times target trees. Over time their gnawing, digging and eating will affect the healthiest of trees. Give the galleries a good flush of the treatment and slowly "drench" the base of the tree with a few gallons of mixed product to insure it gets down into the soil. This way termites traveling in and out of the tree will be exposed and ultimately this will kill the colony.
In fact Termidor has "trees" on it's label so it's okay to be used this way. And to insure you get the ground to absorb a good amount, poke some holes in it with a pick ax or something sharp and blunt that can go down 6+ inches. Holes a few inches wide can be used to pour the mixture into the ground and hold it where it needs to permeate.
Termidor: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/termidor-sc-20-oz
Filed under how to treat by on Jan 10th, 2012. Comment. 
Here are some great photo's showing what it looks like when termites work their way into a wall void. The pictures show damage to the sill plate, sheetrock, floor boards, subflooring and rim joist.
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- Sill plate with termite tubes and damage.
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- Termite tubes on wall studs and sheet rock paper.
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- Rim joist with termite tubing and mud etched over surface area.
Filed under pictures by on Apr 3rd, 2011. Comment.
Can you use termidor around the perimeter of house that has gravel around edge instead of soil???
Yes. Under the gravel there is no doubt dirt down there at some point. From this dirt the termites can arise and access the home. I've also seen where failure to treat the gravel above the dirt will allow the termites to "bridge" over the treated soil below so be sure to give the rocks a dose of either the Termidor or one of the actives listed below. Just keep in mind the normal residual of anything applied to rocks or gravel won't last nearly as long compared to when it's applied to soil where it's more "protected" from the sun and rain.
So in this case, I would recommend using TERMIDOR applied to the dirt below the gravel to start. I then suggest you spray the gravel every 2-3 months with a common maintenance active such as DELTAMETHRIN or CYPERMETHRIN. Either of these last two products will not only keep out the termites but they'll stop most any common perimeter invader from getting inside the home.
Here are direct links to the products listed above:
Termidor: http://www.bugspray.com/item/termidor_sc.html
Deltamethrin: http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page44.html
Cypermethrin: http://www.bugspray.com/item/cypermethrin.html
Filed under Blog by on Dec 11th, 2010. Comment.
Is the 2.75 inch auger suitable for installation of the Advanced Termite Bait System stations? Their web page advises a 4 inch auger. Who is correct? Thank you in advance.
Where did you see a 4 inch auger being needed? In the documentation they gave us, it clearly says 2.75". It's on page 2, right hand side of the page, in the "dark" section of this link:
http://www.bugspray.net/directions/advance-termite-bait-system-installation.pdf
Also, we've been using the 2.75" auger for several years and it's been working fine. You can see using it in the following video and as you'll see, the termite bait stations fit into the drilled out hole just fine:
Filed under what size by on Dec 5th, 2010. Comment.
I have a 1971 mobile home know I have termites. I had a small swarm in my home this summer. I really cannot afford to have my house tented and besides it does not always work the first time around. And you have to do all that repacking and then when you get back in you have to wash everything down. There must be and easier and cheaper way to get rid of these creatures.
Well yes, there is a way to get rid of termites without having to tent the home. First, you'll need to educate yourself on termites so you'll be better prepared to deal with this home invader. I suggest you start by reading our TERMITE CONTROL ARTICLE. It goes into extensive details about this insect including why they invade the home, how to control them and the products you'll need to do the job. In my experience, I've treated many mobile homes with termites and in all cases it's been an easy task to accomplish. This is true because I have experience with this pest but with a little guideance, you too can tackle the problem if you're willing to do a little work to save a lot of money.
First, make sure you have subterranean termites. These are the kind that live in the ground. Drywood termites will thrive up in the structure and the treatments for both are quite different. In general, it's much easier to control subterranean termites and if you read our article, you'll learn how to tell the difference between the two if you're not sure.
Second, make sure you don't have any major leaks in your home. Leaks will enable termites to live above ground – up in the wood of the structure – and if they're nesting up high, traditional ground treatments won't work. To make sure there are no leaks, you'll need to get down under the home and do a good inspection looking for any wet, puddling or any decaying wood members of the home.
Third, once you're under the unit inspecting for any leaks, you should also be noting any pipes that come up from the ground, any support columns or poles, pillars or concrete blocks that look like they might be supporting the home as all of these can be pathways termites will use to get inside the home. In most cases, treating around all of these will be required to keep the termites out so be sure you know where they are all located and that they're all accessible.
Lastly, decide if you want to apply some TERMIDOR or VIPER EC to the ground which will be what creates the termite barrier. We can help you make the decision and a big part of calculating how much you'll need will be based on the dimensions of the area needing to be treated. If you have a "skirt" around the home or a foundation of any kind, it will need to be added to this total which is usually reported in "linear feet". So if you have 100 linear to feet to treat, we'll be able to tell you how much product you'll need, how to mix it and how to apply it.
In summary, the cost of doing your own termite job will no doubt be a lot less compared to hiring a service company. To help you along the way, feel free to call us toll free at 1-800-877-7290 and one of our tech reps will be able to further assist. Yes, this will require some work and a willingness to get both a little dirty and expend a little energy. But in the end, the savings can be significant so it's usually a good investment.
Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:
Termite Control Article: http://www.termites-swarming.com/termite-control
Termidor: http://www.bugspray.com/item/termidor_sc.html
Cyper Tc: http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page24.html
Filed under how to treat by on Nov 8th, 2010. Comment.
I am looking at Boracare for attic treatment – my attic is pretty big approx 60 ft x 50 and when I am standing up it is 7 to 8 ft higher at the peak. Looking and reading about your product says a fogger can be used for this type of application. I talked to some people and they suggested the boracare isn't the right product to use for fogging. Need some help with this as it seems to be the perfect non-toxic answer to my termite problem. Thanks for your help!!! Eric
If you review our TERMITE CONTROL ARTICLE, you'll see we list BORACARE as a good product to use for above ground treatments. Because of it's long term residual action and deep penetrating quality, Boracare treated wood can remain pest free for many years. This is especially true when using it inside home wall voids, crawl spaces and attics where the treatment space is protected from the outside elements.
Additionally, if you refer to the BORACARE LABEL, you'll learn there are three methods of applying it which are all generally accepted. The most common is using a PUMP SPRAYER. This is the preferred method for spraying open areas like decks, wood floors and open spaces where run off would not be a concern. The inside of wall voids would be tough to spray unless the wall is opened up so for these locations, FOAMING TOOLS are commonly employed. The use of foam as a carrier insures better coverage and therefore better results in tight spaces where accessibility is limited. Lastly, open areas like attic spaces with a lot of exposed wood out of reach are commonly fogged with MISTING MACHINES. This application is the preferred method because it will both deliver the product "lightly" so the amount of run off is easy to control as well as make the application easy to manage. When misting you're able to limit both waste and puddling that might otherwise leak through ceilings to living spaces below.
Based on your description of the area needing to be treated, I would recommend misting the space for the reasons cited above. Though spraying is an option, you'd have to cover the floor (which is usually wide open insulated areas) due to the extensive run off to insure it won't leak into the spaces below. Additionally, the amount of waste when spraying upwards is always significant and therefore adds to the overall cost of material quite a bit. Lastly, misting is much easier and better suited to achieve better results so in the long run, it will prove the best way to treat this area. The only application method which can compare is if you opted to get long EXTENSION POLES and paint rollers and choose to roll the Boracare onto the overhead beams. Though a viable option, it too can be both messy and time consuming compared to misting.
Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:
Termite Control Article: http://www.termites-swarming.com/termite-control#boracare
Boracare: http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page234.html
Boracare Label: http://www.bugspray.net/labels/boracare_label.pdf
Pump Sprayer: http://www.gotosprayer.com/sprayers/pump-sprayers/one-gallon-solo-hd
Foaming Machines: http://www.gotosprayer.com/sprayers/foamers/solo-2-gallon-foamer
Misting Machines: http://www.gotosprayer.com/fogging/electric-misters/bg-2300-fogger
14 Ft Extension Pole: http://www.gotosprayer.com/other-equipment/poles/unger-14-ft-telescoping-pole
Filed under how to apply by on Nov 6th, 2010. Comment.
Hello,
I was looking through your website and hope you can help me. I have an heirloom bow front cabinet that has termite damage on one of the legs. What product would you suggest for repair of this damage to ensure that I don’t bring any pests into my house. The cabinet is still at my mother’s house.
Thanks for your help. I look forward to hearing from you.
If you take some time to read through our TERMITE CONTROL ARTICLE, you'll see mention of a product called BORACARE. This product is ideally suited for treating free standing pieces of furniture. It soaks into the grain of the wood and once embedded, wood destroying insects like termites and beetles won't stand a chance at surviving. If they attempt to feed on the wood, they'll quickly die. Treatments can last many years and it's both odorless and safe.
Alternatively, you can opt to use the JECTA GEL. It's essentially Boracare but as a gel you are able to apply it quite differently. For some treatments this alternative form is better suited.
Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:
Termite Control Article: http://www.termites-swarming.com/termite-control
Boracare: http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page234.html
Jecta Gel: http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page156.html
Filed under how to treat by on Aug 25th, 2010. Comment.
Hi,
Hoping for some advise. We had a termite swarm two days ago and, not knowing what they were, sprayed them with bug spray and moved on. The building is 1800 sq. feet and made of all metal beams and concrete. Once we realized they were termites we figured they would just move on having found nothing to eat. However, it looks like we found their entry point inside the building and we were told they are eating the dry wall. Could that be true? We had small piles of sand at the base of a toilet with the same insects last summer but they went away after being cleaned once or twice. Please advise!
Thanks.
At this point I advise you to get a treatment done ASAP! Clearly you have active termites and if the structure hasn't been treated yet, it needs a full residual applied to keep these guys out. For starters, I suggest you read through our TERMITE CONTROL ARTICLE. In the article you'll learn the various treatment options and from the reading you should be able to decide if you will attempt to do the job yourself or hire a service company to do the work.
First and foremost, it's important to understand the termite swarmers you are seeing is indicative of a live and very active infestation. As our article explains, the swarmers will only leave from where workers have been before. You didn't mention where the swarm was seen but in all liklihood it's one of the entry points into the structure. Whether this is on the outside of the building or the inside: it's a live and very active problem that needs to be treated.
As for the dry wall; they aren't actually eating the chalk inside the dry wall but rather the paper outer shell. It's cellulose (wood by product) and they most definitely will eat paper and cardboard. Usually what you'll find will be the paper missing and the paint will begin to peel or chip off the wall. There will also be some dirt or sand in tiny grooves where the paper used to be which is what worker termites bring in when tunneling and eating. This is most likely what you saw at the base of the toilet last year too which just confirms a live infestation.
Lastly, though you don't mention the kind of structure where this is happening, it sounds like it could be a slab home. If so, you'll need a good application with something like the TERMIDOR over everything else we have listed in our article. If applied where they're active you could solve the problem once and for all but at this point it's important you refrain from random spraying anything else. Spooking the termites away will effectively only push them to other parts of the home which in the end will make solving the problem that much more difficult. This is what will happen with most sprays like the "bug spray" you mentioned above. As you'll learn, Termidor doesn't act this way and because of the way it does work it's really the only spray you should consider if the home is a slab. If you still have questions regarding this problem, give us a call Mon-Sat at 1-800-877-7290 as I'm sure one of our techs can further assist.
Here are direct links to the information and products mentioned above:
http://www.termites-swarming.com/termite-control
http://www.bugspray.com/item/termidor_sc.html
jonathan
Filed under termite activity by on Apr 23rd, 2010. Comment.
Do you know what the average number of termite queens are in a termite nest? They're swarming at my house and I've been killing them everyday but they just keep coming. How long do they come out?
In fact most termite colonies will generate male and female swarmers most springs which are sometimes called kings and queens. But the females aren't real queens; at least not yet. They will have to pair off successfully and start a new colony for this to happen and it's not that easy to do.
More importantly, if you are seeing that many at your house and it hasn't been treated recently, you need to have the problem addressed. Termites swarming in or around the home is a sure sign of a problem that needs attention. I suggest you read through our TERMITE CONTROL ARTICLE and decide if want to treat this problem yourself or hire a service company. Failure to do anything would be a mistake – especially if you're seeing them inside the home.
Here is a direct link to the article cited above:
http://www.termites-swarming.com/termite-control
jonathan
Filed under termite queen by on Mar 29th, 2010. Comment.
Is it possible that they have not infested the house; that they are swarming just like bees looking for a place to nest? I'm only seeing the winged termites in my kitchen and no workers (white ones).
In all likelihood you have a problem. As explained in our TERMITE CONTROL ARTICLE, termites will release swarmers or reproductives from their most active locations. These termites are essentially males and females leaving an existing colony or active location with the sole purpose to be forming a new colony. Swarmers aren't equipped to prepare escape tunnels and pathways out and away from their nest and instead rely on workers to build such pathways. This means if you're seeing them in the home, workers have been or are still there. In other words: you have termites.
At this time I suggest you review our article. If you decide this might be a treatment you'll be willing to attempt, give us a call with any questions and I'm sure we can assist.
http://www.termites-swarming.com/termite-control
jonathan www.bugspray.comFiled under termite swarms by on Mar 26th, 2010. Comment.
I saw something on the outside wall. Looks like mud tracks and it goes from the ground to the siding. I want to know if its mud tunnels or not. How can I upload the photo to let you see and tell me the answer. Can termites fly or jump ? How can I know my house has termites or not ? Thanks.
If you have a photo, just e-mail it to us and we should be able to tell if the quality is good enough. I also suggest you read through our TERMITE CONTROL ARTICLE which explains in great detail most anything you need to know if you want to find out more about this pest.
As you will learn, termites will many times build these tunnels through which they travel to access wood (food for termites). The tunnels protect them and can go unnoticed for long periods of time. And many times they will abandon tunnels so even if you aren't seeing any "live" termites, if the house hasn't been treated since the tunnels were first discovered, it's generally thought the activity is "new". At that point a thorough application is usually the best way to proceed.
For now, I suggest you read our article. After you learn more about them you can decide if you want to do some treating yourself or hire a professional. If you have further questions or concerns, you can always give us a call toll free too at 1-800-877-7290.
jonathan
Filed under mud tunnels by on Mar 18th, 2010. Comment.
How long does the Termidor application stay in the ground? It kills termites that are present but does it also prevent them or do I need to apply something else? Thanks.
Termidor is still being tested and monitored but when used at label rates, it has proven to be 100% effective 7+ years. In other words, when applied properly at labeled rates, you shouldn't have to do another application for many years to come. My guess is you can expect to get at least 10 years of residual in areas around the outside foundation perimeter of the home. Inside treatments that are protected could last longer. This would include locations like crawl spaces or under a slab. So to answer your question, a job done properly using Termidor as explained in our TERMITE CONTROL ARTICLE should yield excellent results and prove to be all that is needed to both control the current termite problem as well as protect the structure for several years after the application. If you have further questions or concerns, please give us a call on our toll free at 1-800-877-7290.
Filed under residual by on Jan 3rd, 2010. Comment.
We have a post-and-rail fence dividing our backyard garden from the lawn (total of 8 posts). Termites have invaded the posts and even the rails. What would be the most efficient way to kill these pests?
B.J.
Termites will readily attack wood or other cellulose material which is both vulnerable and readily available. Fence posts buried in the ground are generally prime targets and should always be treated prior to installation or else termites will surely find them at some point in time. It sounds like that time has arrived for your fence but that doesn't mean the fencing is all bad; just because you see termites it doesn't mean there is significant damage. A good treatment when termites are first detected can many times keep them away for good and save the targeted wood from being replaced.
Ideally the soil should be treated prior to the fence poles being installed. If they're already in the ground, you can usually treat them by removing some dirt around the base of the pole and loosening up the soil enough so a good liquid treatment will soak down to where the termites are gaining access. This means a good soil drenching will be required. Most labels like that on CYPER TC TERMITE CONCENTRATE will list 1.5 gallons of mixed product per foot of pole buried. So if the poles are 4 feet down, you'll need to use 6 gallons of mixed product to get a good treatment in place.
For more information on how to treat around the home or other structures, refer to our TERMITE CONTROL ARTICLE which covers most of what you'll need to know about this destructive pest. If you have more questions about termites, please give us a call on our toll free 1-800-877-7290 and one of our tech reps will be able to further assist.
Filed under infestation by on Nov 30th, 2009. 2 Comments.
We get a lot of inquiries from customers who are wondering when they should change out the Inspection Cartridge located inside their Advance Termite Bait Station. As explained in our termite control article, you should inspect them every 45-60 days. Upon inspection, you should find them to be in one of three conditions: 1) No activity and in pretty good shape. 2) Damage and rot but no insects. 3) Live termite or other insect activity.
The following video walks you through the process of inspection and should help educate you as to when you should change one or leave it be.
Filed under live by on Oct 14th, 2009. Comment.
I have read your website but am not totally sure what I need to treat my house for drywood termites.
The areas of infestation are wood beams approximately 1 foot thick and 10 feet long, they're in the walls in a few places.
I'd like to speak with someone before I place my order to as this is first time I've tried to do it myself.
I think I'd need 1 jug of Termidor and some foamicide. I have an electric drill and awesome I will have to buy a long very narrow drill bit to drill holes in the wood beams to fill them up with foamicide.
Drywood termite treatment needs to be done at key locations. Typically this is where they are nesting. It sounds like you know at least one of these locations and with the right tools, you should be able to get the nest directly. Access holes will be needed and if you can flood the area with TERMIDOR by using our LIQUID FOAMER, you should be able to get the product where it most needs to be.
Please give us a call at 1.800.877.7290 this Monday and ask for Mike or Chad. I'm sure they'll be able to further assist and enable you to do this job yourself. Taking the the time to learn just what you need to use and where to apply it will enable you to do the job right. I'm sure we can assist you in accomplishing this goal.
Filed under drywood termites by on Jul 11th, 2009. Comment.
